New season trend indicator Paris born

Leading Words: The Paris Spring-Summer Fashion Week 2011 was a platform where new brands and events made their mark. To stand out, showmanship is essential. Like in politics, it's often easier to talk than to act.

Jean Paul Gaultier bids farewell to Hermes' last work

The participation of brands at the Paris Fashion Week reached an all-time high. In order to impress buyers and fashion editors, major designers had only 15 minutes to present their vision. This moment mirrors politics—success often requires bold displays.

Designers and politicians share similarities. Over the course of eight days, the event has increasingly resembled a massive campaign. In venues like the Grand Palais, the Palais de la Bijouterie, and the Louvre, designers acted like presidential candidates, promoting their collections to an audience of editors, buyers, and bloggers. Each designer had just 15 minutes to express their creative direction—whether raising or lowering hemlines, using bold colors or muted tones, embracing minimalism or rejecting it. The winner would set the tone for the next season. Yet, as with politics, it's always easier to say than to do.

World-Weary Rock Party vs. World Entertainer

Balenciaga

"This will be a season for boys," said Nicolas Ghesquiere on the first day of Fashion Week, emphasizing the masculine side of women. With models like Carolyn Murphy and Gisele Bundchen, he showcased looks that blended retro elements such as slouchy trousers, houndstooth jackets, and leather vests reminiscent of 1950s London "Teddy Boys." This collection was a bold statement against the prevailing trends, but the question remains—can Ghesquiere still influence the direction of fashion?

Three years ago, his "Samurai of Flowers" collection turned Paris into a sea of blossoms. However, as a perfectionist, Ghesquiere now faces new challenges, from fabric innovation to reinterpreting Balenciaga’s legacy. As designs become more complex, there's a risk of becoming too inaccessible. High-profile pieces made from mixed materials may be hard for mass-market brands to replicate, and originality is more valuable than imitation.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Luckily, Balenciaga’s rock-inspired aesthetic found its match. Balmain and Jean Paul Gaultier both delivered punk-themed collections. Gaultier’s show featuring Betti Ditto and a dynamic catwalk received enthusiastic applause. His 3D printed skirts and lace jeans felt fresh, more like a rising band than a tired classic.

Balmain

While Balmain’s challenges are more straightforward, Christophe Descarnin’s signature combination of leather and denim has started to feel repetitive. He even unintentionally echoed the punk style of the 1970s, directly referencing the Sex Pistols. “My studio is full of their posters,” he admitted. But for the most expensive clothing in the world, audiences expect more than just nostalgia. Style.com suggested a DIY approach, advising customers to make their own safety-pin leather garments to save $25,000.

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