Apparel Materials Science - Clothing Basics (Continued)

Third, light resistance

In the use and storage of clothing materials, due to the combined effects of sunlight and atmospheric conditions, oxidation will occur, gradually deteriorating the performance and decreasing the strength, resulting in loss of use value. This phenomenon is called "aging" of clothing materials. The performance of a garment material against the weather is called weather resistance, and the performance against sunlight is called light resistance. Lightfastness is very important for clothing that is often used in the open air.

1. The nature of the fiber

The lightfastness of fabrics varies with the type of fiber. Among natural fibers and man-made fibers, wool and hemp have good light resistance; cotton and viscose fibers have poor light resistance; silk has the worst light resistance. Among synthetic fibers, acrylic fiber has the best lightfastness; polyester has better lightfastness, close to wool, and its lightfastness is poor, which is close to that of cotton. Nylon has poor lightfastness and is similar to silk, but the lightfastness of polypropylene and vinyllon. Worst.

2. The nature of the fabric

The difference in light resistance of fabrics woven from various fibers determines the differences in the range of applications and conditions. Acrylic fiber has good light fastness and it ranks first in all kinds of fiber, so it can be used as outdoor clothing such as curtains, bedspreads, travel accessories, swimwear, etc.; the light fastness of polyester fabric is inferior to other fiber fabrics after acrylic fiber and is suitable for making. External clothing; wool fabrics, although better lightfastness, but should not be exposed to sunlight for a long time, otherwise it will lose the luster of the wool and yellow, giving people a sense of desiccation; especially for silk and nylon fabrics, Because the ultraviolet rays in sunlight have the effect of embrittlement and destruction, exposure to sunlight for a long time not only makes the color yellow, but the strength does not drop significantly. Therefore, such fabrics are not suitable for outdoor use. In general, most fabrics should be shaded in a cool, ventilated place. This not only helps maintain the fabric's vibrant color, it also extends the life of the fabric.

3. Detection method

The light resistance of clothing materials can be tested in two ways, namely open-air exposure and artificial simulation. The former has the advantage that the test conditions are relatively close to the actual conditions used, and the disadvantages are the long test cycle and the poor reproducibility of the test results. The latter is an instrument test method. The advantage is that the temperature and humidity of the air and the radiation intensity can be controlled, the aging process of the test can be accelerated, and the test results are more stable, but the disadvantages also exist because of the difference in the spectral distribution of the artificial light source and sunlight used in the instrument. Therefore, the comparability of different test results is poor. In actual use, according to different needs, different methods can be used to test the percentage of the strength loss of the clothing material after irradiation for a certain period of time to reflect the degree of its lightfastness.

Fourth, chemical resistance

The ability of garment materials to resist various chemicals is known as the chemical resistance of garment materials. This property has an important influence on the process of washing, dirt removal, dyeing, and bleaching of garments, because in these processes, garment materials will encounter different levels of chemicals such as acids, alkalis, oxidants, and bleaches. In addition, fabrics treated with drugs have a certain impact on human skin health. Therefore, it is necessary to study the chemical resistance of clothing materials.

1. Fiber properties

The chemical resistance of various kinds of clothing materials can be considered from the characteristics of raw material fibers.

(1) Acid resistance: The acid resistance of the protein fiber is better than the acid resistance of the cellulose fiber. Therefore, the wool and the silk fiber can be made unaffected or less affected by the organic acid or the inorganic acid. Under normal circumstances, weak acid or low concentration of strong acid will not produce obvious damage at normal temperature. With the increase of temperature and concentration, the destruction of strong acid will increase correspondingly. The acid resistance of cotton, hemp, and viscose fibers is relatively poor. Both strong and weak acids, organic acids, and inorganic acids play a destructive role in varying degrees. Cotton fiber is extremely unstable to inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and nitric acid, etc., and will have a significant decrease in fiber strength. Generally, organic acids do not act on cotton; the stability of hemp is better than that of cotton, and the sensitivity of cotton is not so high. Hemp will be damaged, while cold concentrated acid will hardly affect hemp. In chemical fiber, the acid resistance of polypropylene and chlorinated polypropylene is the best; the acid resistance of polyester is good, they have good stability to inorganic acid and organic acid; the acid resistance of acrylic fiber is strong, and it has certain resistance to organic acid, but In concentrated sulfuric acid will dissolve; nylon acid resistance is the worst in synthetic fiber, a variety of concentrated acid will make it decompose; Vinyl is not resistant to strong acid, easy to dissolve.

(2) Alkalinity: The alkali resistance of cellulose fibers is better than that of protein fibers. Therefore, cotton, hemp, and viscose fibers are resistant to dilute alkali at room temperature; silk and wool have poor alkali resistance, and alkali has a strong corrosive effect on them, and the effect varies with the concentration of alkali solution and temperature. The greater the concentration, the higher the temperature and the stronger its destructive power. In chemical fiber, the alkali resistance of polyester is the worst, and it has good stability to weak alkali, while strong alkali will cause its surface to be corroded and part of the surface falls off to show irregularities; the alkali resistance of nylon is better than that of polyester; the acrylic is Alkali solution will dissolve; vinylon, polypropylene's alkali resistance are better; Kleenex is generally not affected by alkali at room temperature.

2. Fabric properties

Knowing the acidity and alkalinity of fiber, it is not difficult to comprehend the necessity of using various fabrics as working clothes in the chemical labor environment. Because weak acid or low concentration of strong acid has no significant destructive effect on wool fibers, wool fabrics can be dyed in weak acid dyes and can be used as anti-acid work clothes; and the performance of cotton fabrics in lye can make them “silk”. Treatment; Polyester encountered strong alkali corrosion, it was used to make polyester burnt fabrics. People are looking forward to applying the chemical resistance of garment materials to produce more, better and more useful products.

3. Detection method

The acid and alkali resistance of the test garment material is generally expressed by the degree of decrease in the strength of the solution at a certain temperature, a certain concentration, and a certain pH, or the degree of change in the weight, coloring, and other properties of the material. At present, there is no standard test method that can be regarded as uniform.

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