At present, polyester/viscose/nylon/spandex 54/28/16/2 four-component blended fabrics are popular on the market. The trade name is Roman cloth, and most of them are knitted fabrics. The front side of the product is a polyester/viscose component, the reverse side is a brocade/stick component, and the spandex is sandwiched. Due to the different fiber composition on the front and back of the fabric, many dyeing plants are often forced to rework due to inconsistent color on both sides after dyeing . Technical staff Ningbo Eagle Knitting Ministry of Industry and Trade Co., stained by repeated practice sample to determine a better process.
Process flow: sewing head with cylinder → pre-shaped → pre-treatment → disperse dyes and polyester components → reduction cleaning → reactive dyes dyed viscous → post-treatment → drying → heat setting → inspection → finished product packaging.
1 Preform
This process is mainly to prevent the irreversible wrinkling of nylon in wet heat treatment . Preformed basic conditions: 160°C to 170°C, 25 to 30 m/min. If the blended fabric does not contain nylon, there is no need for preforming. Because the grey fabric is directly dry heat set, it will cause the original dirt to dissolve into the fiber, making it difficult to pretreat. Some greige fabrics contain nylon, but they have a lot of dirt and should not be directly shaped. The fabrics should be pre-treated on flat web equipment (such as a jigger). If the plants are not knitting-width dyeing equipment, can also be used highly potent agent, such as sodium hydroxide, special effects oil remover (Chuan) or the like, is processed in the polyamide glass transition temperature (45 ℃ ~ 65 ℃) or less. Practice has proved that, if the mix when Jin Lun woven fabric content of more than 25% to 30%, especially those containing nylon 6, can only be processed at room temperature to remove the dirt.
2 Pre-processing
Prescription: scouring chelating agent (X-178) 1 g / L, effects oil remover TF-101C (Chuan) 1 g / L, bath softener M-288 (Hangzhou MGM) 2 g / L.
Process conditions: bath ratio 1:8 to 1:10 (the same for all the following wet heat treatments). Put the fabric that has been set into the cylinder directly into the cylinder, run at room temperature, and gradually heat up to 90°C for 40 minutes. Finally, fully wash the fabric . Since the fibers of the fabric are all man-made fibers and are inherently clean, even if some grease stains are adhered during the weaving process, it is not necessary to add alkaline agents and oxidizing agents in the pretreatment.
However , the combination of surfactants must reflect the following four characteristics:
(1) Ideal for the chelation of metal ions in water, strong detergency;
(2) For removing soluble impurities not fall back to the fiber stains, low foaming, regardless of cold water, hot water can wash and clean;
(3) Add a non-ionic softener to smooth the work bath , reduce the friction between fabrics, prevent nylon damage and viscose damage due to excessive expansion;
(4) Surfactants have a strong ability to remove grease dirt.
3 Disperse dyes dyed polyester [Black (Yuan Qing)]
Prescription (omf): 30 % Dispersion Black (EX-SF) 4%, 100% Disperse Orange (S-4RL) 0.35%, 98% (mass fraction) Acetic Acid 0.6 mL/L, Dispersion Levelling Agent (YS-50) 0.5 g/L , bath softener (M-288) 2 g/L, sodium acetate (pH buffer) 200 g.
Process conditions: Fabric treatment with hot water into the dyeing machine 80 ℃ 15 min, further removal pretreatment agent remaining on the fabric, changing drained water; adjusted with acetic acid dyebath pH 5 to 6, the feed room temperature and 2 ℃ / min rate was raised to 128 deg.] C, holding the dyeing 60 min; transfected Pichia gradually cooling to 80 ℃, washed with water, drained residue, for water reduction cleaning, reducing conditions: soda ash (Na2C03) 1.5 g / L + hydrosulfite ( Na2S204) 2.5 ~ 3 g / L , 98 °C ~ 100 °C, 20 min, fully washed, to be dyed viscose.
4 Reactive dye dyed viscose
Prescription (omf): Ciba Clone (WB) 2.2%, Ciba Clone Deep Red (SB) 0.29%, Cibacron Yellow (S-3R) 1.6%, Yuan Mingfen 60 g/L, Soda 20 g L.
Process conditions: 60 °C constant temperature method, dye and Yuan Mingfen (promoter) after dyeing for 20 min, adding alkali agent (fixing agent), and then dyed for 60 min; washed by soap after washing (scouring chelating agent X-178 Dosage 1 g/L , 98°C, 15 min), then rinse thoroughly and post-treat.
4 Dyeing precautions
(1) When the disperse dye polyester, important to the stability of the medium. Practice has proved that this depends to a large extent on local water quality, as well as technological factors such as fabrics, equipment, dyes, and dyeing depth. If sodium acetate is used as a buffer, the amount thereof is generally 1/10 to 1/2 of the amount of acetic acid , which can be determined by testing the stability.
(2) When dyed black, front and back are in accordance with standards have a certain degree of difficulty, so choose a good complementary color dye is very important. Practice has proved that, although disperse and reactive dyes have an affinity for nylon, but the color yield and hue are not the same, so the two make the dye color on four fibers dyed consistent, we must at the time of sampling Experiments were repeated to observe their hue and reproducibility on various fibers. If the above can not achieve the same two dyes, the choice had no affinity for polyester and viscose neutral dyes (dark) and a weak acid dye (light in color), to be set at the level of reactive dyes soaping bath.
(3) In the restoration and cleaning, it is necessary to remove the floating color of the surface of polyester, and to remove the stain on other fibers. Caustic soda cannot be used, and only soda ash can be used. Because the former will promote the hydrolysis of polyester (peeling), directly affect the dyeing of disperse dyes on the nylon; and the latter is not only the stabilizer of the decomposition of the insurance powder, but also to promote the floating color cleaning.
(4) After each procedure must be fully washed.
(5) When the reactive dye is dyed black, Yuan Ming powder and alkali agent can be added at one time, while others need to be added 2 to 3 times depending on the degree of color and lightness and the size of the equipment to prevent coloration.
5 Post-processing
Although the dyes themselves are good color fastness, but the fabric is to be repeated are dry / wet process, to a certain extent affect the dispersion / fixation of reactive dyes, color fastness so high requirements, in particular When dyeing black, red, dark brown, iron gray, dark green and purple, etc., deep color, it must be treated with cationic fixing agent to ensure the color fastness. If there is special requirement on the sense of the opponent, softener treatment can be used. Because most of the softeners are positively charged, the fixing agent and softener can be treated in the same bath.
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